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Here's the third page of different questions I've had thrown at me by you nice people out there.
Q: Only one question? Eeeep... Well.... I'll put most of mine up here and you can pick and choose... but I think the biggest one is: Why no alcohol based paints on the face? There are alot of reasons I can think of but I'd really like to know the actual answer.... If you're up to other answers..... Well here goes: Do you know if Su-Do is safe for use on faces? It seems to hint that it is alcohol based but I have yet to find an actual statement as to what it is based on. I'm intending to work mostly on the dancers in our area so any paints I use need to be versitile and sweat proof enough to last through an evening's performance without smudging or running, but overnight isn't really that important. Any suggestions? I'm just learing this as though it were an entirely new medium so if you have a paint in mind that might be better, let me know please!!! I'm willing to deal with oddnesses in learning, relearning later is a pain ;P Do you know of any licenses required to do body painting for the stage and theater? Cosmotology that sort of thing or is it simply a skill based thing? I'm getting missinformation from somewhere.... Lastly, is there a brush you would recommend. I have a badger but it is gravity feed and I absolutely hate it, and a pauche (sp?) that is so ancient that it has no model numbers any longer.... Thank you so much for any answers you can offer me! A: Wow! Ok... here we go:
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Q: I read that I should dilute the waterbased paint I use to the consistency of milk. I seem to have the t-shirt thing down okay. I can paint/fix/wash them with no color loss problems. When on paper, similar to people who do caricatures, I can't get the hang of it. What paint thickness, air pressure, etc would be good. HELP! Please :) Thank you. A: The PSI should absolutely be adjusted down for the more reflective surfaces. T-shirts are at the opposite end of the spectrum from metal, being very absorbent. Hence, the air pressure should be turned way up. Remember that thinner pigments take less PSI and thicker pigments require higher pressure. Inks can be airbrushed at 5-8 PSI, while I've heard of some airbrush artists who use in excess of 65 PSI for fabric. |
Q: Is there a clear coat spray that I can put on my temporary tattoo's that will help them last longer? If so what is it called and what store? Is it safe? A: Yes, there is. Ben Nye makes a clear makeup sealer which is acrylate based and VERY minty. The last time we used it, we found it for sale at www.ustoy.com. To be honest, I found some of the alcohol-based makeups to be longer-lasting. |
Q: Your question and answer page is awesome.. Been trying to use artist tape (along with frisket film) but i am having trouble as far as the paint bleeding real bad underneath.. Is there anything else beside frisket film, something that might come in a roll, like artist tape, that won't bleed?...thanx for all your help if ya can. A: Thanks! I'm sorry to say that those types of products are just difficult to work with. You can adjust some of your techniques (such as holding your brush at 90 degrees & reduce your PSI), but you are always going to run the same types of risks. Sometimes it's very frustrating, but when it's right... it's really good! Hang in there. There's a lot to learn with airbrush and, as with anything good, it takes a lot of practice. |
Q: Where do I start! So many systems, how do I know which one is the best to buy? A: Begin by taking a look at a generic, airbrush shopping list. Then, try visiting www.bearair.com and www.dixieart.com and look at what they have to offer. Iwata is our favorite, but look around and learn which brushes are recommended for which applications. Don't buy anything until you figure out which one is best for you. Check out our Instructional CD-ROM for beginning airbrush artists. It will also offer some good guide lines for making your investment. |
Q: I can't get createx pure pigment to stick on smooth plastic. I've tried opaque medium and auto air opaque extender, neither work. Will Bond All solve this problem? I don't have the time to sand everything or double my paint costs and time by priming everything with a basecoat. Also, why should the white paint stick better than the other colors? A: I hate to tell you this, but the problem isn't the paint, it's the prep. For any kind of smooth surface (plastic, metal, etc.), you need to prep the surface before the paint will stick properly. Depending on the media, we usually use scratch pads (you know, the green ones you use on pots and pans?) to rough the surface before we apply paint or primer. Be sure, when you do this, that all of your strokes follow the natural contour of the surface and they all go the same direction. This will insure a beautiful finish. Unfortunately, this is not a step that you can skip. If you try, it will likely end up costing you in more time spent trying to make it right and it will cost you in quality because the artwork won't live long. |
Q: I am looking to start airbrushing racing helmets. I have had two painted by professionals and am happy with both. I am fairly picky about how things look with my racing organization and can forsee the need to get a new helmet once and awhile to match my car. My last paintjob cost over $800. My sponsor paid for it yet I am still in disbelief that I paid that much. My first helmet was really good and only cost 250. Anyway, I would like to have your opinion on what equipment to buy for this, from airbrush type, to paint, to compressor. I am sure you get the picture. I have nothing but an idea right now, please list the things that will start me off on the right foot. It looks like you spend alot of time helping people with questions like this so I hope you can help. It's nice to have nice people that help just because they love it. Too bad racing isn't like that! Thanks for the info, if there is a video or book taht would help me with the process of preparing through finishing a helmet that you would recommend please do. If you email me I can send a pic or two of the helmets I have had done. They are pretty sweet. The last one is chromed! Thanks again, JT A: Thanks! Please see a starting list for a good idea of where to begin and I would love to see your photos! Good luck and ride safe! |
Q: I was introduced to Airbrushing by my art Teacher, in Art class (where else), and I've really taken a liking to it. I would like to get my own airbrush so I can continue this on my own. What I'd like to know is how much work is needed to properly clean your average double action airbrush, specifically the Paasche VL. A: Good for you! It sure is an addictive art! To answer your question, the Paasche VL is probably the most popular beginner brush, and I know some artists who will swear by it to their grave. It's really not too bad to clean, once you are comfortable with the process. However, we've found that the Iwata Eclipst HP-BCS is the best brush we've experienced, for beginnners or advaned users. Geez! I'm starting to sound like an Iwata commercial! |
Q: What steps do i need to take to paint a snowboard? ex. sanding, final coat...im so lost. A: I've never painted one, but I'm going to presume that you will need to sand it with increasingly finer grain paper, prime & sand again, paint and clear coat. This process is pretty common for most heavy-duty jobs like this. You will likely want to use the urethane paints for this type of application. Good luck! Sounds like fun! |
Q: Is it possible to airbrush normal furniture finishes (such as oil or water-based polyurethanes or stains)? I have a lot of wood shelves to do and thought it would be faster and a better finish if I airbrushed instead of paintbrushed. A: You bet it is! AND it comes highly recommended. Keep in mind that the thinner the pigment, the lower the PSI needs to be. |
Q: I am a costume designer. I need to learn to airbrush in order to creat color fading, light to dark, one color into another, on some of my costumes. I use stretch fabrics and fabrics that are very lightweight and airy, so I need to use paint that does not dry stiff. I need some advise . What kind of airbrush do I get. What kind of paint do I use and what kind of compressor do I need. I am sure I can play around and figure out how to do it once I get set up. I just don't know where to start. Help! A: Airbrushing for costume design is a complete blast! Lycra takes the paint like a dream. The best acrylic we've found for this type of application is Createx, which can be found for sale at www.bearair.com. The best airbrush, hands down, is the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS and any of the compressors BearAir has on it's site are good. BearAir and Dixieart (www.dixieart.com) both carry everything you need to get started. For a more complete look at the equipment you need to basically get started, visit our list. For beginner's instruction, be sure to check out our Learn To Airbrush Instructional CD-ROM. Good luck and have fun! |
Q: i want a airbrush system that you can use to do fake tan AND body art ..... am i asking for too much ? A: No, you're not. We use the same airbrush for all of our body applications. (Here goes the Iwata commercial again!) The Iwata Eclipse, HP-BCS will cover all of those bases and more. Some people like to use detail brushes (like in automotive paint) for covering larger areas of skin. I find the smaller brushes (like the Iwata) to be more forgiving when it comes to conserving pigment or solution. Basically, the only differences between using the tan solution and the body paint will be the air pressure and the number of clogs! LOL (Air pressure should be less for thinner solutions) |
Q: The trigger hangs up in the down position after painting for a few minutes no matter what I do. I clean it out break it all the way down put it back together still happens after a few minutes same thing. I have even went as far as replacing all the guts still nothing !! New trigger nothing works .The gun is 3 months old or so what should I do? Thanks for any info. A: Occassionally, paint will get into the rear chamber of the brush and sometimes into the air chuck itself. When this happens, it will cause the trigger to stick and really serve to be frustrating. There are two ways to remedy this issue:
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Q: Actually, it is not a burning question... it is the chance to say THANK YOU for having this place where I can get the advice and tips I needed to get started. I bought an airbrush and compressor from Dixie Art and several books and videos and now I am ready to start learning. I will check back here often and, of course, will ask questions when needed. I did want to tell you that Dixie Art has some great videos for beginners. I bought both Beginning Airbrush by Terry Hill and one on nail art by Liz Fojon. Terry Hill was working on T-shirts, but his focus was primarily on the basics, not the t-shirt. I learned many important things from his video and would recommend it to ANY beginner. Liz Fojon's video on nail art was also great. I plan to buy other videos as I can. Anyway, just... thank you! As Arnold would say, "I'll be bahk..." A: Wow! We love getting feedback like this! Thanks! It's good to know that there are some good videos coming out now, also. I haven't seen either one of these, but I know Terri Hill gets good ratings on many levels. Anyways... thanks for the kind words. They are highly valued! |
Q: Since reading the 'baby oil' question I tried it and I'm sure you'd be interested to see how I got along. Oil and water don't mix, right? Yeah, they do! Emulsifying with a dab of washing up liquid (detergent) stops oil floating on water. Only problem is, I think I used too much oil in the mix, as the paint has lost all of it's permanence. It'll rub off with a finger. Still - worth a try! A: Thanks! It's always good to hear back on some of these experiments. Since we're pioneering a new industry, cooperative experimentation is such a fantastic thing. We've found that too much oil of any kind, including glycerine products, will cause the pigment to wear and rub. |
Q: i am an artist specialising in drawing and i want to be able to 'draw with paint'. i'm thinking an airbrush may be the tool for this but i'm not sure as i know absolutly nothing about airbrushes. can you acheive crisp fine lines with an airbrush without using stencils? what airbrush would you recommend theres just so many.HELP!! A: The thing about getting fine, crisp lines with an airbrush is that "fine & crisp" are in the eye of the artist. Yes, you can do some amazing detail with airbrush, but it takes practice and technique. Practice will obviously get the free-hand lines in shape, but technique will achieve results as well. For instance, to achieve a fine and crisp line without drawing it on free-hand, you would take a free-hand stencil and simply airbrush along its edge with a good half-on-the-stencil, half-on-the-canvas spray. This technique achieves good, crisp lines and is excellent for edging gradients. |
Q: hi. i just got my airbrush gun. it is a bottom jar feed airbrush.i want to buy some extra bottles but i dont know which one to buy so it would fit my gun.i check on the websites and there is bottles and caps and all these numbers. which bottle would fit for a iwata eclipse(2001) hp-bcs gun? which size jars should i buy and which one? please help me im lost. thanks for any help. A: On today's market, it seems like one-size-fits-all. You can even buy the bottle assmeblies at www.bearair.com. The assemblies include the bottle and siphon cap (wt. red stem cap). If you just want to get the siphon caps to fit on your Createx jars, you will want to look at the different ounces (1, 2, 4, etc.) and lengths (20mm,22mm,etc.). It really sounds more confusing than it is. Good luck! |
Q: I've heard a double action is really hard to use, it that true? Also, which is best, a bottom bottle feed or a gavity feed? Which is easier for changing out colors? Thanks so much A: Double (or dual) action brushes are harder to learn to use, but are easier to control once you've mastered them. The hardest part is training your finger muscles to work the dual action mechanism. Those muscle groups are not used to working in this manner, but are easily trained. We always tell our students to remember to "push down on the trigger first, then pull back". Your natural muscle response is to pull back on the trigger and then push down. As for gravity-fed vs. siphon-fed, it depends on your usage. Gravity-fed rocks for changing colors and for most applications, but gravity-fed works best for extreme detail such as illustrations and nails. |
Q: I currently only use my iwata hp-c airbrush for food media (i.e. cake and candy decorating). being an artists I do an assortment of other crafting and hobby work for fun in which I do not currently incoorporate use of my airbrush. The reason being my burning question. Is it a possibility to use and or clean an airbrush properly and safely enough to be able to use for both media? A: I would only attempt to cross mediums if both pigments are completely FDA-approved non-toxic. For instance, I wouldn't use an airbrush to decorate a cake, if I had used the same airbrush to paint a car. However, if you are using makeups or non-toxic pigments, there shouldn't be a problem with proper clean-up and sterilization. |
Q: I wanted to start doing airbrush makeup for brides and also airbrush tanning. Can I use the same airbrush and compressor for both. If not , could you please advise me in the best equipment ? Thank You a lot. A: Not a problem at all. The only two changes you will have to make are to lower your air pressure for the thin tanning solution, compared to raising it slightly for the thicker makeup. Again, I highly recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS and you can go to Walmart and purchase the Campbell-Hausfeld Quiet-Air compressor (with reserve tank) for about $100. Good luck! |
Q: I used an Arylic Urathane for my clear coat on a snowboard i did, but it cracked when my board got a bit of flex in it. What would you recondment to use as a clear-coat? As well as i'm airbrushing some hockey helmets and i don't know if i should sand the whole helmet or just part of it, what paint to use or what type of clear-coat could you maybe help? i'm looking for max duribility. A: Try using polyurethanes, instead of acrylics. They are much more flexible. The acrylics totally rock for stationary surfaces (such as signs, license plates, and bug shields), but they suck completely for flexible surfaces. As for sanding the helmets, keep it as light as possible. Depending on the condition of the surface, you will want to either totally sand and prime the whole thing (for bad surface), or lightly scratch pad the area for the artwork (for good surface). When making this call, remember that any cracks, chips or scratches in the pre-artwork surface will show in the finished product. Also, remember to charge accordingly for your prep time if you end up prepping the whole helmet. A special note: Any helmet company I've ever checked on will void the safety rating on helmets which have been sanded or altered. Some clients really don't care about this, but some might. It's just a good idea to be informed. |
Q: I'm a professional makeup artist working in tv, print and film. I want to buy an airbrush just for applying foundations, contour and highlighting. i will probably expand to tattoo's, tanning, body makeup from there. But the bulk of my work will be foundations. I am totally overwelmed buy all the airbrush supplies out there. i want a compressor that i can regulate and is quiet. i want a gravity feed airbrush and some nice foundations that don't dry the skin. i like what i've red about the temptu & kett compressor and the temptu sb colors and kett colors. do you have any ideas? what is the best airbrush, compressor and colors for what i want to do? thanks, Linda A: Don't feel like you have to buy an airbrush or compressor strictly from a makeup dealer. The truth is that you can use any airbrush for almost any surface (with some technical guidelines). I've said it before, and I'll say it again: Iwata Eclipse, HP-BCS and Campbell Hausefeld Quiet Air Compressor. They are everything you will ever need and more. All compressors make some kind of noise, it's just a matter of how much noise. This Campbell Hausfeld is very tolerable, even when it's right at your feet during a good conversation. It also has a reserve tank, which allows the motor to cycle on and off when needed. As for colors, try www.realcreations.com. That's what they specialize in. |
Q: I'm looking to get my first airbrush. I know you mention that you are in favor of the Iwata HP-BCS airbrush. Is that a better brush than the Iwata HP-C or HP-CS brushes? Also, what's the reasoning behind going to the gravity-feed top-mount brushes versus the pressure-feed bottom-mount brushes? Does a gravity-feed airbrush block the artist's view of his canvas (due to the paint canister being on top), and is the top-mount paint canister heavy enough to occasionally twist the airbrush left or right? A: Any of the Iwata airbrushes are very good. Choosing your model is totally dependant on what you intend to paint. I like the HP-BCS because of its versatility. We airbrush a large variety of surfaces, so versatility is important to us. Gravity-fed brushes are made for lower air pressures, thinner pigments and greater detail, such as for a nail tech or illustrator. They don't block view at all, but they are more of a pain to change colors and clean. No twisting, either. You would be shocked at how well balanced all of the brushes are. Hope that helps. Good luck! |
Q: Someone bought me a central pneumatic compressor and i cant figure out a way to connect my airbrush to the compressor! i've tried everything and its driving me crazy! How do i connect it and do you know a website with actual directions to put these things together????? A: Paasche makes a screw-in adapter to put on the end of your hose, which will allow a 1/4" female connection, which is also fairly standard for finding quick-connects to hook into your compressor. Be sure to regulate your air down to the manufacturer's recommendation (usually under 20# for skin applications, and under 65# for all other). You can find these adapers for sale at www.bearair.com |
Q: I have gotten the idea to airbrush on a wrestling singlet, i found this page through webcrawler but have no idea how it would be done or if it would be done different than a usual shirt ect. Since the message board is down i can't really find the answere through there. If you could please help i would be glad, what do i all need what is an inexpensive airbrush but one that will do the job. thanks. A: Cool idea! Minus a few technical points (like air pressure and pigment thickness), airbrushing on one surface is very similar to airbrushing on any other. The price and type of your airbrush is going to depend on the type of detail you want on your singlet. Really cheesey single-action brushes can be found for as low as $19.95 at your local hobby store. They work ok for coverng ceramics with no detail, so I imagine they would work just fine for a one-color, very low-detail singlet. Advancing in price, you will find better control and detail, starting with Paasches around $60. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes! |
Q: Going to buy a air compressor. Does it have to be an oiless compressor or would a regular shop air compressor do fine. A: Oiless is just as good as any other. Remember to regulate your pressure and use a moisture trap. |
Q: I'm a humorous illustrator/cartoonist based in Kansas City(howdy neighbor) and have many years of art under my belt,but I'm just starting advanced use of the airbrush-up to this time I've just used my airbrushes for background work.Now I've been asked to do a series of motorcycle helmets and I've never had so much frustration (not counting those few years of marriage). My biggest prob seems to be masking-how do you mask a curved area without the tape or frisket developing "folds" where it bends? I can't get a clean line on curved lines on the helmets-have you ever used liquid friskets on your work and do you think it would hold out auto paint to work as an effective mask? I appreciate your time spent regarding my question and I really enjoy your site-leave it to some Kansas Citians to devlop a truly useful site! If you're ever in need of a cartoonist/caricaturist,let me know! Meanwhile I think I'll go back to the staff page to ogle all those gorgeous staff members... A: Howdy, neighbor! I'll be sure and warn my staff members about your ogling...! LOL Frisket isn't ogl-able, is it? Honestly, I don't know why they sell that stuff. I've never had any luck with it and I know a scant few who have. Mostly, everyone pretends that they can use it well, while they curse it profoundly behind closed, studio doors! Personally, I use masking tape and edging tape (used in automotive painting). The edging tape is made to be flexible and kinda bendy, but it's not very wide. Liquid frisket is another option, which I haven't tried in years. It used to be very popular, but didn't re-stick very well. Yes, leave it to us Kansas Citians... we're right in the middle, so we catch it from all ends! Would love to see some of your work... |
Q: Hi, I have trouble painting on shoes. I add one droplet of Bond All and catalyst from createx, but when I spray fine lines I have trouble, seems like the paint doesn't flow very well. My other problem is, when I airbrush winter hats, since they can noyt be heat pressed. I have heard that Dr. Martin, is got a additive called "heat set" but they do not have it here in Toronto. So, my burning questions are:
A: Hi, Vincent! Unfortunately, acrylics are the problem. It's kind of a double-edged sword. You need the paint to be as thick as possible to accomplish good color and opacity, but you have to turn the air pressure up more to get the thicker pigment through the airbrush. This causes dry-tip and clogs, but if you turn the pressure down, you can't get the paint to spray and if you dillute the pigment to run at lower psi's, you lose good color and opacity- especially on darker canvas. I have never found acrylics that were any different, no matter what brand. Some are better than others, but they all clog, dry out and generally tick-off the artist during the high-detail moments. On your lighter-colored shoes, you shouldn't have any trouble getting good color with thinner pigments, but for your darker-colored canvas you can spray a base coat of white, before you add color, or thin your paints and go over your work more than once. We've started playing with spraying bleach on dark colors. Try it. It gets some really interesting effects. As for your hats, if they are cloth of any kind, through them in the dryer on high for at least 20 minutes. It has a comperable heat-set effect to ironing. |
Q: I do body art, face painting, airbrush tans, AND temporary tattoos'. I see in your pages you state that you know of no Temp Tats. I can give you or your clients all the links you can handle on this lucrative art form. Later!!!! From the great white north. A: Woo-hoo! Please share with us! We have been chomping at the bit for some really good temp tatt ink that is made for airbrush. Many thanks! Follow-up I have been reading and searching pretty well every link I can find, and the one thing that has become glaringly apparent is that airbrush Bodyart is really the only place to deal with. Everything I have is from them and the delivery to Canada is lightning fast. Each site I go to from a link has more links and those sites have more links etc., as well you know. Here are some you may not have been to. These are where I got into the American suppliers. I have also read that their inks are a little bit heavier than the Austrailians. I really hope this is some value to you. Get Painted,Snazaroo, Trendytribals. I poked around and got onto your website. You do awesome work and should be very proud. |
Q: Is my airbrush good for t-shirts, and what do you recommend for precise detailed work on shirts. Any special technique for black shirts. A: Yup. Sure is. You should be able to get some good stuff out of your Iwata Revolution. On dark shirts, try spraying (carefully!!) a bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water. You can add color later, but the bleach does some really fun stuff...! |
Q: does createx have special paint for body tattooing?and do they come in sets? A: I wish I could say they do, but as of 02.2004, they do not. We've wondered why they don't get into making the makeup, and our guess is that they are likely to be a little shy of the liability potential. Try www.realcreations for some airbrush makeup choices. They even have multi-packs. |
Q: can this airbrush spray urethane clearcoat? it doesnt seem to be cooperating.It spits about every 10 seconds or so.I put the largest tip & needle on and have tryed both high and low pressure, it gets better,but not perfect at a whopping 60 to 80 psi, but that seems like way too high.I hear its not good to try and thin eurethane.Should I just get an auto type hvlp to spray the clear separately? Please help, no one at my auto paint shops can help.thanks! A: No, it doesn't like to. You might get it to spray ok by dilluting the pigment, but this particular brush (Badger 150) is not tolerant of corrosive cleaners (such as mineral spirits, turpentine, etc.). These little boogers have a teflon o-ring inside of the body of the brush, which they call the "needle bearing". Corrosive paints and cleaners simply eat the needle bearing and corrupt the inside seal. Badger offers free re-packing and replacement of these bearings, but you have to send them in and wait for them to come back. Yes, I would strongly recommend using another type of gun for the clear coat. |
Q: when i put the tube of paint into the airbrush gun it wont suck the paint and go onto any surface. so how do you get the paint to come out? because air will come out. A: Try using a (much) thinner pigment. The stuff you can buy in the tubes is WAY too thick, and isn't much good to thin down for airbrush. Try using Createx brand paints. They are mixed down pretty well for airbrush and can be purchased at the same hobby stores where you found the tubes of acrylic. |
Q: first off...i just want to say that you have some great stuff in here. My problem is : i do not have a supplier anywhere close to where i live, but, i do have a Wal-Mart, can i paint with "Folk Art acrylics, and if so, how will they hold up compared to other brands. I have ordered Createx from time to time, but with shipping it just gets way too pricey, i do have a hobby shop here, but the old fart who runs it just refuses to order in supplies for airbrushing, so unless i can get it at canadian tire or Wal-Mart...i'm stuck paying high prices for paint.Thanks in advance. A: First back... Thanks! So glad you can use some of it! To be honest, Apple Barrel and Folk Art may be easy to find and cost effective, but they tend to coagulate terrible. Those nasty, disgusting, strings of coagulated pigment are an airbrush artist's worst enemy. Their opacity isn't that great, either. So, in the long run, it's really worth it to pay the extra for Createx or another airbrush acrylic. Sorry about the old fart. He's probably bit it on a few airbrushes, and doesn't sell many to boot. What a shame... You might try www.bearair.com for some really good prices on airbrush paint (including Createx). |
Q: While at Gasperilla (Florida) I saw a booth doing airbrush Tatoos. I notice on their airbrush gun they had a round selector that allowed them to swith between paint colors with a flip of the dial. They had about 12 color lines hooked to it. Have you ever of anything or who has it? Thanks.. By the way Great site, tons of info. Thanks A: Thanks! Yes, I know what you're talking about. They are called Spectrum Color Changers and can be found at www.bearair.com for sale. They cost about $300 for the set-up and run off of a bottom-feed airbrush, or you can buy an adapter to run a side-feed airbrush. I know a few airbrush tattoo artists who have tried them and were not very happy with them. They compained of losing too much paint between colors, although the manufacturer says that backflushing between colors will solve that problem. |
Q: l left my airbrush clean and with a nose cap on for several weeks. when l returned to use it, l could not get any liquid, even water, to go through the airbrush. l have cleaned it again and have the same problem.. lots of air but no liquid. Any help would be appreciated. A: If you were using acrylics, I would suspect that there might be a clog hiding somewhere (ie the tip). However, watercolours are far less likely to coagulate and clog. The next culprit may well be your siphon straw. Sometimes they get cracked or get worn and don't seal correctly around the paint bottle siphon apparatus. Check the straw and if it's not the problem, you might have an o-ring (needle bearing) issue. The Badger 150 has a little teflon o-ring inside of it, which is located inside the middle of the brush. If you use any type of corrosive paints or cleaners through your airbrush, it will eat the o-ring and cause the spray to pulsate or not spray at all. Badger used to have a lifetime warranty on replacement of the o-ring. You might check with Badger and see what it takes to get this replaced. They used to have an address you could send your brush to, they would repair it, and mail it back to you in a couple of weeks. |
Q: Hi from another near neighbor in Kansas. Great site you have here. I want to do some airbrush work on my motorcycle and I'd love to give the Createx Auto Air colors a try. My problem is that I can't find an actual Createx website to locate "local" suppliers and to see if they offer assortments for startup airbrushers like myself. I really would like to know if there is a source for these products in the Kansas City area that I can go and pick out the colors I want to start with. I don't mind buying over the internet, but I hate the "wait-and-see" method. I'm not looking for an endorsment of a particular company, but rather some ideas in the K.C. area of places I might find a large selection to choose from in person. Biking weather is coming back quick....My ride is sanded and primed....I need HELP!! Thanks A: Thanks! We truly love our site. Ok, locally you can go haunt Keith Coldsnow's Artist Supplies (located one in Westport and one about 105th & Metcalf). If they don't have it on their shelves, they are really good about ordering for you. On the net, you can find Createx at www.createxcolors.com, but www.bearair.com is a really awesome supplier for all Createx paints. Good luck on your ride. Let us know how the AutoAirs work out for you. |
Q: I've been airbrushing for a while, with cheap brushes, and now I need to know how to really clean my great iwata eclipse. I liked it some much i bought 2. I noticed that the needle feels really tight inside the body on one of them. even with the tip off. needle is clean, and not bent. both needles feel the same way insde it. I don't know if it's dirty inside where i can't clean it? or maybe a little lube might help on a seal. And will the lube effect my paint? It' seems to spray ok. Whats the deal here? A: Sounds like your airbrush could use a good 'ole fashioned reamin'! Try running some mineral spirits or paint thinner through it, alternating backflushing and spraying. Then, use a small brush (like an airbrusher's brush, found for sale at www.bearair.com or www.dixieart.com ) to ream out the inside of the brush. Be sure to take your needle out and wipe the whole needle clean, as well. Because the Iwatas do not have a needle bearing, sometimes the paint gets built up on the inside. We have found that SuperLube (also for sale at www.bearair.com ) helps cut down on the residue/build-up and also helps to insure a healthy brush. A tech at Iwata suggested it instead of WD-40 or lightweight oils, and we use it as part of our routine maintenance. To properly apply, remove the needle, dual-action mechanism and trigger from the airbrush. Place only one small drop down inside of the air valve, where the trigger usually rests. Take the tip of the needle and GENTLY stir the drop. Replace all parts, but do not wipe the needle. Let the oil smear on the needle tip lube the body as it is re-inserted. This will make your brush smile and it won't effect your paint spray! |
Q: My question is how I would go about marketing my work after all this time. Ive been at it now for about 13 years. My house is full of portfolio cases containing work built up over the aforementioned time but don't know what to do with them. My passion for creating conceivable realism in my work has paid off very successfully. My only claim to fame being an illustration depicting a binary star system in the international astronomical pamphlet "Pulsar" in 1998. My subject matter has covered biblical prophecys as well as unsensored depictions of actual experiences in the jewish concentration camps of wwII. As well as astronomical & conjectured images of our neighbourly planets. I live in North Wales in the uk but find that my only source of income so far is working from home on this here computer. I will try to attach an image on a floppy of Venus viewed from the surface done in 1998, which was done purely with imagination and scientific knowledge. The original size was done on 85x59cm black mountboard with no use of masking except for the probe dashboard. I find highly inflammible independant plus liquids ideal for cleaning and backflushing both my airbrushes. Also I use only a high flow nozzle with the devilbis 93E. Why? Well what I did some years ago was I had a go at tuning the needle. Firstly I used a course sandpaper on a sanding block and began shaving off the edge from the front end so that from the tip the whole profile follows gentle graduation from tip to full width Then using finer and finer sandpaper smoothed it off up to say (course 2000) then proceeded to use silvo polish to really smoothen it off rubbing up and down the body for some time. the final result, an easyer to clean high flow needle with the capacity for fine line detail down to quarter cm. Saves alot of hassell changing needles. Thought id contribute something whilst asking for your advice,...mc A: And a big hello to North Wales, too! Wow! Sounds like you have a portfolio to be very proud of! I would LOVE to see your work. Please feel welcome to drop an email with some photos attached. As for marketing....ugh! It's the dread question! LOL Of course, getting your work out on the internet is the first big suggestion I have. We have found that marketing through the 'net is very viable. However, you have to understand that once your work hits the internet, people will steal it right off of your webpage and not think a thing about it. You can do things (like watermarks, no right click, etc.) to help with this, but we've come to the conclusion that imitation is the finest form of flattery and the work we've gained from our website far outweighs the theft. Another suggestion would be to get an agent. They are hard to come by and many of them are dishonest to an extreme, so you have to watch who you're getting involved with. If you go the agent route, it is never wise to sign an exclusive with anyone, unless the contract includes a minimum paycheck guarantee for you. Beyond that, you can hire a marketing firm to get your stuff out in the right places. It's the expensive road, but probably the most solid. We've actually been thinking about doing an artist spotlight for airbrush artists on our site. We already have one up for body artists (www.airbrushshoppe.com/webring/spotlight.html -includes some nudity). Maybe we should do one for airbrush artists and you could be our first?! Might help... |
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