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Here's the second page of different questions I've had thrown at me by you nice people out there.
Q: What would be a good source for letter designing? How do you get such fine detaling? The smallest needle possible? If so should I stay with that needle? What about changing the needle, is it a good idea to be changing needles right after you just used it? Does it matter? I felt like I should never change my needle unless everything was dry? Am I worrying to much? Is it ok to switch from one to the other like that? I use window cleaner and backflush really well. I see some pictures with outstandingly fine detail and want to be able to achieve the same. I consider myself a copycat, but lack the skills to be creative. I just keep thinking the more material I see the more I can kinda combine into my own. Having problems NEED MORE DATA!!! hehe :) OH YEAH...My white really sucks, wuz up wit dat? It doesn't cover and is really hard to work with. I could fill pages and pages with questions. Thank you!! Scott A: Dang, dude! You need to lay off the coffee! ; ) Close your eyes and repeat after me: "Relax... chill... my airbrush is my friend... It will not chase me down the hallway with it's evil laughter echoing in my ears...". Sorry. It sounded like you could use a smile. You have quite a few questions. Let me see if I can address each one. Lettering: It depends on whether you want to learn to free-hand the letters or use a stencil. There are lots of different options for both. Try visiting www.airbrushaction.com or www.airbrush.com for some good tips on both. Fine detailing: Fine detail is a combination of several things. I noticed that you have a Paasche Millenium. They are dual action, which is great for the best control over detail. The paint thickness will have strong bearing on your airbrush cooperating with fine detail. The thicker the paint, the harder it is to get good consistant detail. Air pressure could also make a difference. I've experienced that lower air pressure and thinner paints make for better fine detail control. The medium needle works well for fine detail, and the fine needle works better (especially with inks), but I've run into some other airbrush artists who strongly disagree with this theory. Changing your needle: Change it! There is no harm in swapping needles. Just remember to also change the needle tip assembly to the corresponding size. It doesn't have to be dry, just clean. And yes, you are worrying too much. Copycat: That's a good way to learn your own style, as long as you honor other artist's copyrights. White that sucks: sigh... White sometimes does that. The different pigments have different consistancies and, even when a paint is "specially formulated for airbrush" does not mean that you won't have to thin it. Try thinning water-based paint with a little distilled water. A little thinner than buttermilk should do the trick. As for opacity, it will depend on the surface you are painting on. Lighter surface of all sorts do not seem to be a problem and darker canvass such as leather and metal do well, but I haven't found a paint yet that is problem-free when working on darker fabrics. Createx is the best, but it still has a problem with being opaque enough to get really good coverage on a black t-shirt. The best thing I've found to do in that case is to put it on in stages, meaning to put it on, let it dry and then apply another coat. Pages and pages of questions: Go ahead! If we can be of help, that's what this page is all about. Quest away! and...You're welcome! |
Q: You have the skills, you have the airbrush, where do you go from there.... A: Anywhere you're little airbrush desires! There is actually quite a demand for good airbrush artists in many different fields. Automotive, illustration, murals and sign work are just a few examples. The best thing to do is to research the field you most enjoy and go for it! Good luck! |
Q: Hi, What type of material do you use when making stencils? I use a thin plastic bought in a hobby shop. I am having problems with cutting it using a exacto knife, especially the smaller , more detailed sections. I am hoping there is some fantastic type device out there that i'm not using. Also do you thin your paints when using createx? I really admire the tiger on your art page, I am kind of a tiger fan, my first tatoo was a tiger. Oh Yeah!, Why sometimes when I'm sprayig does the brush quit spraying as good , seems like I crank back on the air and BLAM a big thick'ole burst shoots out. I have been burned by this and now shoot a blast on the palm of my right hand(me being left handed) before I start each time. Is this a cleaning thang or thin'in thang? or operator malfunction? More questions later when I can find my big'ole long Santa Clause at Christmas time type list. :) A: We use a flexible, tear-resistant plastic to create our stencils. It's very similar to what the hobby shops sell, but it's much sturdier. If you're using the stencil blanks typically sold in hobby stores, you might try cutting them with a stencil burner. A stencil burner is most likely sold at the same store where you buy your blanks. I've tried everything to cut stencils I can get my fingers on, and I'm happiest using an Olfa knife. They are actually made for wall paper, but they navigate very well for small detail and the blade is made so that you can snap the dull end off to refresh your point. As for thinning your Createx, we use distilled water. We've used plain old tap water, too. Concerning the "blam" experienced when airbrushing... it comes with the territory! I have to confess that my left hand gets the same test shot before I start a color or when I'm having a flow problem. So, it's not a cleaning thang, thinnin' thang or operator malfunction... it's par for the course! If it's really bad, you might check to see if you have a moisture trap on your airbrush line or compressor. If moisture gets in your line, it can also produce big blaps of irritation. Thanks on the tiger. I'm partial to big cats. They have the most amazing eyes and I really enjoy painting them. Talk to you at Christmas! |
Q: I am interested in getting a temporary tattoo in the bikini area. How long would it last? I've been told there is a temporary tattoo (I'm not sure what it's called) that will last up to 5 months. Is there such a thing? A: Hello, Tempie. I wish I knew where to find a "tempie" such as this! We get many requests for these, and the closest we have come to it is henna, but even that only lasts a few days to a couple of weeks. Sorry we can't be of more help, but I think it must just be one of those "urban legends"! |
Q: LOL. Thank you! Thank you! for putting together this fine site and being, as you mentioned in one of your other responses, one of the few (and very far between) who will answer questions! I want to start airbrushing snowboards. What kind of primer should I use on a laminated, very slick surface? A: You are too welcome! To answer your question, and this is only an educated guess, I would say that the snowboards are most likely made fiberglass. With that in mind, you should look into using enamel paints and grey acrylic-laquer primer/surfacer. You can also go to Airbrush.com. They might be able to shed a little light on your quest. Good luck! |
Q: I am getting water splatters during my brushing. I am using a small 1/3hp diaphragm compressor with a water trap and regulator. The paints are water based and are being diluted with water to a milk consistancy. What can I do to stop the water splatter ruining my work. I'm starting to get disillusioned with it all. HELP! A: It appears to me that you should take a closer look at your moisture trap. It sounds like it's either sick or dead. That would be the only reason I could think of that you would be having this very irritating problem. I completely understand your frustration. It's very infuriating to be down doing the most perfect detail work and... blatt! A big, mud-colored water spot blows the whole thing. You might check into getting a moisture trap that fits on your compressor, verses the type that goes on your airhose. They seem to do a more thorough job keeping the water out of your line. |
Q: I basically want to know what I should be looking for in an airbrush to do face painting with. I have read that I would want a dual action and want to stay at 10psi or less. Do you agree? What other requirements do you have with your airbrushes? A: You would be well suited with a dual action brush, because it gives you quite a bit more control over spray pattern and detail than a single action airbrush. My personal favorite is the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS. It's fantastic for just about everything and it's very forgiving with clogs. As for PSI (pounds per square inch), I've heard some airbrush face painting retailers state that using over 10psi is not advisable. I don't want to step on any toes, but I can't see how using 10psi is enough to even get your pigment through the brush (unless you're using an ink or water-thin pigment). We use 15-22psi for our face and body painting, with the high-end would be no more than 25psi. Any more than that and you run the risk of embedding the pigment into the pores... ouch! We've airbrushed a ton of faces and bodies using these specs and we've never had anything less than success. |
Q: I have gone through the beginner sections and have basic knowlege. Need some help on masking - I can't seem to do it without it bleeding. Any Advice would be helpful. I am airbrushing on fabric. A: It sounds to me like you have several things you might want to check.
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Q: How to adjust from fine line to wide stroke? A: Depending on the make and model of your airbrush, adjusting your spray can be accomplished by either pulling back on your trigger (dual action), manually pulling back on the needle (single action), or by twisting the needle (single action/external mix). |
Q: Hello, I just purchased the Paasche VL double action brush. I first tried it with the very thing paint that it came with and it worked for the first few sprays, so I changed paint to the Auto Air brand, for spraying my car. The problem I have is that the brush sometimes sprays and sometimes it doesn't. I made sure the paint can is screwed in good and the tip is as well, the needle is all the way covering the opening when the trigger is vertical.. yet when I pull the needle back, it doesn't spray sometimes, sometimes it does and it stops.. and then it sprays again.. Could you give me some tips as to what I might be doing wrong, is it just that the paint might be too thick? A: The first thing that I would suggest for you to try is to check and be sure you have removed the cap from the front of the brush. Paasche makes a real tricky needle cap that looks like it belongs there. It has a hole in it and everything. I couldn't count the number of times I've seen a new owner not realize that there is a needle cap on the front before they are ready to throw the darned thing. The next thing I would suggest is to check your air pressure. Most manufacturers recommend between 15 and 65 psi. The thicker the paint, the higher your airpressure needs to be. You also need to keep the inside of the brush ridiculously clean. Good luck and let me know how it goes. |
Q: I've just discovered a new hobby of gourd artistry and really like airbrushing designs on them. (I'm a total beginner, though). Question 1: What kind of paint should I use to adhere to a dried gourd (must it be water based?). Question 2: So far I'm having a real aggravating time with my brush getting clogged constantly while I work. It seems if I put the brush down for 2 minutes, it's already clogged and I have to take the darn thing apart over and over to clean. Can you shed some light on my problem: is my paint too thick (if I thin my paint more it loses its opacity on the gourd), or am I not cleaning the brush well enough, or must I just work FAST while the paint is still good and wet? Thanks for any advice! A: Gourd painting sounds like fun! Never tried that one before. If you are working on a non-porous surface, you may need to rough the surface with a brillo pad in order to get the paint to stick well. You will probably also need to finish the surface with polyurethane or some type of clearcoat. I would use a water-based paint, but I wouldn't recommend Liquitex or Applebarrel. They tend to coagulate pretty badly, which can cause lots of clogs. I would suggest Createx. Good luck and please let me know how you fare. I would enjoy seeing your work when you get some done. |
Q: Hi, Ive just started airbrushing and would like to know if the words "nontoxic" on a paint label translate to: don't worry... you can breathe in the overspray without a respirator. Ive heard bits and pieces about long term health affects of breathing in paints and would like to know what is safe. A: Non-toxic means what it says, but common sense dictates that breathing any chemical over an extended period of time can be hazzardous. I use resperators and dust masks, and I would recommend that anyone working in paint vapors should do the same thing. It's pretty inconvenient and it sure isn't pretty to look at, but it's probably the best precaution to take. If it really bothers you to not look pretty while you paint, you can always do what a couple of my New York Art Students did: draw a mouth and nose on your mask! LOL |
Q: I want to know how I can learn different techniques, because I'm from Luxemburg and they don't offer lessons or other stuff to learn!! Could you give me some tips (adresses or good books) so that I can learn the fantastic art of airbrushing!!! A: We are in the process of producing a line of instructional videos for airbrush, but the first video won't be released until around the first of the year. We are taking advance orders, and you can go to our website and visit our shop if you are interested. You can check out our bulletin board for ideas, tricks, tips, and questions. You can also go to the Airbrush Junky's Corner, The Quest for Airbrush Answers, at The Airbrush Junky's Corner where you can find a lot of good information. Another good site for information, is airbrush.com |
Q: Can you use an airbrush to spray on resins [ie Fibreglass] combining resins fillers hardeners etc? A: I suppose you could, providing that the airbrush is rated for use with those types of chemicals and corrosives. Some airbrushes have a teflon or rubber o-ring or needle bearing inside of the brush and are not able to tolerate harsh solvents and such. Personally, I would be more likely to use a sprayer for such a project, rather than an airbrush. Some of the sprayers out there can achieve some pretty small detail. DeVilbiss, Iwata and Badger all make sprayers, if you are of a mind to check it out. |
Q: Hi, I hope you can help. I normally can press down on the trigger and get air and pull back and get paint. Now I just press down and get paint. What did I do? Did I break it? A: Unscrew the back of the brush and check the needle screw. Chances are it came loose and the needle needs to be pulled out, pushed back in gently, and the needle screw needs to be retightened. This is called reseating the needle. |
Q: I've opened an airbrush booth at a local flea market here in Toronto. I've been involved with airbrushing for a long time but no matter how hard I try to airbrush BLACK t-shirts, am not getting the desired results, please advise me on how can I get a black t-shirt airbrushed!!!! A: Dark fabrics are just difficult. It's not anything you are doing wrong. A couple of suggestions are to
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Q: Airbrush tattoos- In general how does one remove them? Alcohol? Baby Oil? Greating appreciate your time. Tat must be removed before entering private school tomorrow. A: You nailed it! Alcohol and Baby Oil are the numbers one and two for best removing temporary tattoos... |
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A: The thing about tips and their matching needles is that the airbrush doesn't spray properly when tips and needles get mixed up. I always teach my students to change needles, needle tips and needle tip assemblies when wanting to change the needle size. There are airbrushes out there which have the "one size fits all" and they only have the one needle and needle tip assembly (Iwata Eclipse is my fav). Also be sure to tighten all your tip assembly to the manufacturer's recommendation. Most models which require changing needle, tip and assembly also require a wrench-tight connection. |
Q: Hi. Very good FAQ! Still have a few questions though. You mentioned using Createx paints on helmets and then doing a clear coat over it. What do you mean by that exactly? To me clear coat always meant expensive, toxic, automotive, have to have a fancy spray booth type stuff. A: Clear coat can also be purchased in a spray can at your local hobby or hardware store. It works very well on smaller projects. My persoanl favorite is Kryolon Crystal Clear. It will weather just about anything! |
Q: I am the absolute beginner in airbrushing. I am looking EVERYWHERE to find plans on putting together different types of decent air supplies for airbrushing. I know there are everything from expensive compressors to aerosol cans, spare tires, CO2 cans, air-tanks, etc.... I can't for quite a while afford a quality air compressor and I do not want to use aerosol because or some of the cheaper 'pulsing' type of compressors because of the side effects that can appear in your paintings using these. What is a very good and fairly inexpensive air supply system to put together and HOW do you actually do it. What attachments do I need, where do I get a moisture trap, etc....How do I physically put the thing together. Can you help me out please? A: The most consistent, cheapest air supply I've found has to be CO2. You can rent a 20# cylinder from your local gas/welding supply shop or local bottler (ie beer or soda). You will need a heavy-duty regulator (also available from the gas/welding supply store) which has been fitted for CO2. You will need a quick-connect to hook onto the regulator, as well as the corresponding male adapter for the end of your air hose. The quick connects are available at your local hardware or automotive store. |
Q: Wow, I'm so happy to find a place to ask about frisket. How do I use this sh*t-uff???? It dose all right on paper. On the canvas the pressure of the air lifts the frisket (even with lower pressure). Secondly, when I use the frisket to separate areas I want to work on, I get definate lines that I can't soften. This makes my peice look extreamly mechanical. Should get away from frisket and go strictly freehand? Please, some pointers for a frustrated beginer----- crying, crying',',',',',',!!!!!!!!!!! A: LOL You've just expressed the frustration most every airbrush artist feels for Frisket! If they would make it a bit thicker, it might be easier to use. However, it has it's place. If you use it in combination with other airbrush techniques (such as freehand & stencil), you are more likely to get the results you are looking for. If you want to use a sticky-backed stencil material, try getting a can of spray adhesive and make your own stencils. You can make your stencils out of just about anything (from paper to acetate and plastic). Something else to consider is your spray angle. Be sure to spray your airbrush at 90 degree angle to your canvas. This will help prevent the film from blowing up and underspray. |
Q: How do you clean your airbrush? Someone told me use thinner but it keeps on exploding on me. Not the airbrush but on the thing that I'm airbrushing. Could you give me a hint, please. A: It sounds to me like you might have moisture in your air line. If you get bursts of moisture on your canvas while you're airbrushing, it is likely because you don't have a moisture trap hooked up and not because you haven't cleaned well. |
Q: I want to start my own airbrushing business, but I have no clue of my supplies of all I need. Could u send me a beginners supply list please? This has been a life long passion im making it a reality. Hope u can help. Thank u, Christy A: Depending on what you want to specialize in will dictate what equipment and supplies you need. Basically, you will need
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Q: I would like to know what to charge for airbrushing a complex mural on an interior wall about 22ft.wide by 25ft.high. Also I will be painting traditional flames the whole way around the garage. (6ft.high flames 88ft. around the room) I have never painted a mural and really do not know what to charge... Thank you. A: Pricing is always the dread question, and each bid should be tailored to fit your client. Every artist has developed their own pricing formulas, and they are VERY different. When we paint a mural, we usually price them at $10 per square foot and $12 per square foot over 10 feet off of the ground. This price would include your supplies, labor and design work but would not include painting the base coat over the wall. That should be a seperate charge. Now, that doesn't sound like much until you start chalking up the footage in a large 10'x60' mural, which would add up to be about $6000. I'm sure you will find artists who agree and those who disagree, but I guarantee none of them have pricing exactly alike anyways! LOL |
Q: I am thinking of buying the Iwata Sprint Jet compressor to apply a fake tan to my clients bodies. Do you know if the above compressor has an air regulator on it? I have been told that I can only work with a maximum of 10 psi. A: I don't know for sure if that make and model has a regulator, but most of them are sold with regulators now-a-days. If it does not, you can order one from the manufacturer or buy one from your local hardware, auto parts or hobby store. 10 psi probably is the high-end for pigment with a viscosity of water. It doesn't take much to siphon the pigment up when it's that thin. |
Q: Hi, I'm just starting out. I dont know a thing about air brushing but I see more and more advertisements for air brushing every-day makeup and I'm very interested. First I want to know what kind of brush I should use, and how expensive can this get? Second, is it possible to use drug store brand foundations? Third, how easy is this? I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars and totally hate this because I can't get the hang of it. I'm by no means a quitter, and if sticking to it means that it will be easier and I will get a better look in the long run then hand applying, then I'm more than willing to give it my best shot. I just dont wanna kid myself. I would GREATLY appreciate any help you can give, as it would seem like this is the appropriate, knowledgable, and only place that is not on a money making agenda for info. A: Wow, thanks for noticing! We want to share info on our industry. It is our bread and butter to see this industry thrive! Yes, airbrush makeup is absolutely the wave of the future, whether it's professional, FX or daily-wear. We use and recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush and they run about $130 each at www.bearair.com. Yes, it is possible to thin store brand foundation for use through an airbrush. Just be sure it is not one of the specialty foundations, such as oil control or water proof. Plain, old Cover Girl or Maybeline works just fine. Total $$ for getting started is about $300-$500 for something simple. It sounds pricey, but if it's used and marketed correctly, it will pay for itself quickly and the equipment is very hardy, rarely needing expensive parts or replacements. |
Q: How much paint does an airbrush artist use per week? A: Boy, that depends on the artist and what they are painting. T-shirt artists, in a thriving business, can go through a gallon of black in a week or more. It just depends on what you are painting and how busy you can stay. |
Q: I read somewhere that a mixture of 20% rubbing alcohol OR ammonia with 80% distilled water will work the same as regular airbrush cleaner. I've used the alcohol mixture and it seems to work great especially between colors. And when I clean the brush when I'm done painting. But I'm wondering if I it will damage the seals & etc in the brush? I also use fingernail polish remover (acetone)when I dissassemble the brush to get any buildup off of the brush, will this hurt it? A: I'm not sure about the alcohol/ammonia mixture. I know that alcohol is good for cleaning acrylics out of your brush and distilled water is what we recommend for thinning acrylic paints. Be careful with acetone and alcohol when cleaning your brush. It there are any rubber or teflon seals it will dry them out and mess up the seal. Plain, old HOT water is the best thing we've found to clean acrylics out of our airbrushes. |
Q: I work for an art production company and my boss wants me to research airbrushes. We work mostly with glass...what airbrush would be best for painting with glass enamels? what paints work best for painting on clear window glass? I'm leaning toward the Iwata Eclipse, but i'm not sure if it would be best for our applications. can you help? thank you...Sara A: Iwata! Iwata! Iwata!! We use it all the time on glass, with acrylics or enamels. |
Q: I'm interested in learning face/body airbrushing. I want to know if it is advisable to attend a course first - or should I just purchase equipment and begin practicing on my own (to get the feel of it)? If courses are advisable, which ones would you recommend for the beginner. I'm a makeup artist who works on feature films and tv movies and my main interest is learning airbrushing for such things as spfx (bruises, burns, cuts, etc.) on face and body, as well as beauty, and tattoos. Also,airbrush tanning sounds very appealing as well. So...what's my first step? Classes or equipment (and practicing on my own)? I'd truly appreciate an expert opinion before I make an investment. Thanks so much. A: It is advisable to take a course first, but they are hard to find. We offer a Learn To Airbrush CD-ROM, which is geared for the beginning airbrush artist no matter what canvas they are planning to use. You can find info on it at this link. The truth is, it is helpful to know what equipment is rated best before you make the investment. A lot of people invest in equipment that they are unhappy with later. We use and suggest the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush for this type of work. It will cover all of your bases and then some. |
Q: Hello I need advice on what air brush kits or companies are the best to do nail and body art with there is one company out there that seems to have everything I need (called too much fun) but they want about 600 bucks for the kit I think that is a little to steep for me. Thank you in advance for your advice A: I'm not familiar with this company, but the price isn't all that outrageous. I know that sounds crazy, but the equipment runs pretty high and this price is probably at the low end of the pole. However, if properly used and marketed, this equipment will quickly pay for itself, and the upkeep is nominal. |
Q: How to hold it. I'm a skilled artist with a paint brush in my hands, however, I'm a bumbling fool with the airbrush. It feels very awkward, and with the dual action, I think it's making gaining any sort of control nearly impossible. Yes, I'm exasperated at the moment. How is one suppose to hold the airbrush so to have the most control of the paint flow with minimal discomfort and finger cramping? Thanks! A: Grip the airbrush by the air stem (on the bottom of the brush, under the trigger) with your thumb and middle finger. Use your index finger to control the trigger. Dual action takes a lot of practice. Your muscles do not naturally move this way and must be trained, so don't get too discouraged. Practice spraying and pulling back and forth on the trigger like this. It won't stay awkward for long. |
Q: I want to start doing temporary tatoos but can't get any information on it. Is my airbrush good enough for that purpose I have a Bager 150 dual action? What paints are recommended? Are they safe and won't harm the skin? I also have a Badger 180-11 compressor is it good enough for my purpose of use? Also, can you share with me how to make your own stencils? This is an awesome site! Thank-you! A: I would say that your airbrush is up for the task, but the compressor might not live long. As for paints, only use FDA approved non-toxic makeup for airbrush. You can find them at www.trendytribals.com and www.realcreations.com. Stencils can be created using a number of materials such as plastic, acetate, paper, frisket, or poster board. You can cut your stencils using a stencil burner (which looks like a wood burner with a sharp end), exacto knife or wall paper blade. |
Q: I have a problem - my airbrush will not cooperate with me - I have tried everything - it is a dual action Aztek I pull back on the trigger and nothing comes out - it just bubbles out the paint in the cup - I have tightened and also loosened the tip - but I get the same problem - I have cleaned the tip but still the same problem..no paint coming through the tip . I have turned up the pressure and also lowered the pressure as high as 50 psi and as low as 5 psi - but all I get is bubbling - maybe the seal is broke - I have no idea??? A: LOL Rule #1: Airbrushes NEVER cooperate! It is Universal law!! However, the bubbles indicate that there is a blockage somewhere between the base of the siphon straw (in the paint bottle) and the tip of the needle (in the airbrush). The bad thing about Azteks is that they don't allow you to tear the brushes down. If you disassemble the brush, it voids your warranty. Try spraying some alcohol or HOT water through and see if you can work it loose. Otherwise, you'll have to contact Aztek to see about some tech assistance or repairs. |
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